... but who knows how long it will last. Ted and I have had a lot of fun navigating the blogger interface with everything in Chinese characters and all, and have finally figured out how to access our pages, and therefore comments, at the moment. But we have also noticed that we have not been able to access, up to this point, other .blogspot pages linked from google searches, so who knows how this development happened, or how long it will last.
But we do love to read your comments, either in China or when we get home, so please drop us a line!
Monday, October 1, 2007
It's National Day!
What a day! Let's just set the mood with this picture:
But before we got all flag-waving and patriotic in Tienanmen Square, we started our day early at the Xi Dan shopping district, just west of the Forbidden City.
Shopping in Beijing is a little tricky, because it is hard to know when you should haggle. While one mall in the district will have much more chic items that seem to be set in their price, other malls next door will sell lower quality goods to younger shoppers, and are much more flexible with their pricing policy. Even with this hurdle, Ted still managed to buy me a compact mirror with an elephant on it using his limited Mandarin. I would be lost and starving at this point without his knowledge of some key phrases, although I can count to ten now, ask how much something costs, and most importantly, know that I am a "laowai".
"Laowai" means foreigner in Mandarin, and no, it's not of the "Head Games" and "Cold as Ice" variety. It is the "Oh my God, what planet do blonde people come from?" type of foreigner. With National Week beginning today, Chinese tourists from around the country have poured into the city to see the ancient monuments, but seem much more taken aback by my blonde hair and blue eyes.
One family in Tienanmen Square insisted that I pose for a photo with their young, adorable daughter, both of us waving small Chinese flags. Even earlier in the Forbidden City, I thought I was in the way of a photo being taken by an elderly woman, when in fact she was taking a photo of me. Once I realized what she was after, Ted and I posed for a nice picture for her to show her family. I also saw her snap a more candid shot as Ted and I were walking away ... she just couldn't get herself enough "laowai" for one day.
But as Ted pointed out to me, it is a point of pride to many people that young foreigners come all the way across the world to see their great culture. Walking around the Forbidden City and Tienanmen Square with literally millions of Chinese people from around the country, we felt like we were sharing in their national pride and their celebration, rather than imposing on their special day. Many people, seeing that we were Americans,
would tell us "Hello", to which we would answer "Nihao," drawing huge smiles. My favorite thing to do was say "Nihao" to some of the cute kids on the street, who would be waving their flags, reveling in the celebration. While many were stunned by the big blonde walking by, their parents would smile and laugh, and tell them to say "Hello" back, clearly enjoying the exchange.
Today really made me re-think some common perceptions that people back home have of China and the Chinese people in general. What has surprised me throughout our short time in Beijing thus far has been how warmly people have received us throughout the city. While we stick out like a sore thumb without trying, even the smallest efforts on our part to use Mandarin words and phrases here and there does wonders for eliminating the "laowai" stigma. Often Ted and I see
other tourists from Germany, France, Australia, and the US, and even we try to avoid them as much as possible. They seem very set in their comfort zone, demanding that their Chinese hosts accomodate them as much as possible so that their vacation is as sanitized as possible. But one will find that when you are willing to meet Beijingers half way, it not only makes the interaction easier for everyone, but also seems to lighten the mood and make everyone involved smile and laugh. What's better than that?
But before we got all flag-waving and patriotic in Tienanmen Square, we started our day early at the Xi Dan shopping district, just west of the Forbidden City.Shopping in Beijing is a little tricky, because it is hard to know when you should haggle. While one mall in the district will have much more chic items that seem to be set in their price, other malls next door will sell lower quality goods to younger shoppers, and are much more flexible with their pricing policy. Even with this hurdle, Ted still managed to buy me a compact mirror with an elephant on it using his limited Mandarin. I would be lost and starving at this point without his knowledge of some key phrases, although I can count to ten now, ask how much something costs, and most importantly, know that I am a "laowai".
"Laowai" means foreigner in Mandarin, and no, it's not of the "Head Games" and "Cold as Ice" variety. It is the "Oh my God, what planet do blonde people come from?" type of foreigner. With National Week beginning today, Chinese tourists from around the country have poured into the city to see the ancient monuments, but seem much more taken aback by my blonde hair and blue eyes.
One family in Tienanmen Square insisted that I pose for a photo with their young, adorable daughter, both of us waving small Chinese flags. Even earlier in the Forbidden City, I thought I was in the way of a photo being taken by an elderly woman, when in fact she was taking a photo of me. Once I realized what she was after, Ted and I posed for a nice picture for her to show her family. I also saw her snap a more candid shot as Ted and I were walking away ... she just couldn't get herself enough "laowai" for one day.But as Ted pointed out to me, it is a point of pride to many people that young foreigners come all the way across the world to see their great culture. Walking around the Forbidden City and Tienanmen Square with literally millions of Chinese people from around the country, we felt like we were sharing in their national pride and their celebration, rather than imposing on their special day. Many people, seeing that we were Americans,
would tell us "Hello", to which we would answer "Nihao," drawing huge smiles. My favorite thing to do was say "Nihao" to some of the cute kids on the street, who would be waving their flags, reveling in the celebration. While many were stunned by the big blonde walking by, their parents would smile and laugh, and tell them to say "Hello" back, clearly enjoying the exchange.Today really made me re-think some common perceptions that people back home have of China and the Chinese people in general. What has surprised me throughout our short time in Beijing thus far has been how warmly people have received us throughout the city. While we stick out like a sore thumb without trying, even the smallest efforts on our part to use Mandarin words and phrases here and there does wonders for eliminating the "laowai" stigma. Often Ted and I see
other tourists from Germany, France, Australia, and the US, and even we try to avoid them as much as possible. They seem very set in their comfort zone, demanding that their Chinese hosts accomodate them as much as possible so that their vacation is as sanitized as possible. But one will find that when you are willing to meet Beijingers half way, it not only makes the interaction easier for everyone, but also seems to lighten the mood and make everyone involved smile and laugh. What's better than that?
Sunday, September 30, 2007
Filling in the gap ...
So far, I know I've only talked briefly about first impressions and posted some of our first photos, so I thought I would describe Beijing a little bit more for those of you stateside.
Despite what people may think, Beijing is a very friendly, laid back town. People here, while enjoying ripping us off for 10 cents here and 5 cents there, seem to put up with us few anglo tourists with great patience and a necessary sense of humor.
The people are also very social. While you will see individuals mulling down the streets to get here or there, most of the time people here are in groups, or with close friends or family members. It is not out of the ordinary to see a daughter or son escorting an elderly grandparent to go shopping or to go walking in the park, a young couple playing with their adorable little children, or best friends, no matter what sex, walking arm in arm or hand in hand.
Games are also very popular, especially with the older gentlemen. Walk by open doorways at night in the hutongs, and you will see cards, dominoes, and go games which will draw crowds of onlookers to take in the action. These games are played everywhere, from the park to the street outside their shop.
While Beijing is a fantastic city with a lot of things to see, walking around the city can be daunting at times because of the pollution and the sheer scale. City blocks are very big, and what looks to be a short distance on the map will take hours to trek. Yesterday alone Ted and I walked for about seven hours, but as always, Beijing by foot is the best way to experience the city. Why? Because it is only off of the main streets do you find the hutong, which are a world unto themselves in Beijing. I don't have any pictures yet to really show you what it is like, but let's just say that the noise from the streets fades far away as hordes of shoppers come to these back alleys for everyday goods. Need some used shoes, fresh vegetables, or delicious baozi? Everything can be found in these tiny little alleys, which are well-trafficked during the day, and off-the-hook crazy at night.
Even though it is raining today, Ted and I are still going to brave the crowds to visit the Forbidden City on the National Day. And because we are taking in the local traditions, we are going to make a stop at one of the biggest shopping districts in Beijing, Xi Dan. Check out Ted's blog later to see some of the best products we could find.
Bye for now!
We finally got our luggage: here are the pictures to prove it ...
We were up on our hotel's rooftop terrace when we found out the good news ...
so we decided to hit the streets, where we came across the Drum Tower where Ted got friendly with the locals.
The view was amazing ... or at least it would have been if it weren't for the smog ...
but we had a great time anyway. After that, we ended up wandering towards Houhai Lake, where we found China's answer to Tenacious D ...
which made us want to get some more exercise. Luckily, you can find these jazzercise palaces in little corners of Beijing ...
along with a starbucks next to the lake. How great is this place?
But tomorrow the fun really starts, as every one is getting ready for National Day. The flags are out and waving proudly, and there are even more men standing around on the street in ill-fitting uniforms than usual. We'll be going to Tienanmen to catch all of the patriotic action and get caught up in the national fervor.
Also, if you want much more eloquent accounts of our travels, you can always go over to Ted's blog at http://www.flyingelephantexpress.blogspot.com. We can't read our blogs here in China (we haven't seen the great wall yet, but we've sure come across the great firewall), so you should. And as always, you can always email Ted or I if you want to keep in touch.
so we decided to hit the streets, where we came across the Drum Tower where Ted got friendly with the locals.
The view was amazing ... or at least it would have been if it weren't for the smog ...
but we had a great time anyway. After that, we ended up wandering towards Houhai Lake, where we found China's answer to Tenacious D ...
which made us want to get some more exercise. Luckily, you can find these jazzercise palaces in little corners of Beijing ...
along with a starbucks next to the lake. How great is this place?
But tomorrow the fun really starts, as every one is getting ready for National Day. The flags are out and waving proudly, and there are even more men standing around on the street in ill-fitting uniforms than usual. We'll be going to Tienanmen to catch all of the patriotic action and get caught up in the national fervor.Also, if you want much more eloquent accounts of our travels, you can always go over to Ted's blog at http://www.flyingelephantexpress.blogspot.com. We can't read our blogs here in China (we haven't seen the great wall yet, but we've sure come across the great firewall), so you should. And as always, you can always email Ted or I if you want to keep in touch.
Friday, September 28, 2007
Could my feet be any dirtier?
I couldn't have been in a worse mood when they told us that our tickets on the Air China flight did not exist.
It had started with a canceled flight out of Eugene, then our e-tickets listed us coming back from Beijing but not going there, and on top of it all, before we could even make it to Beijing with our imaginary tickets, we had to stop over in that wonderful facility we all know and love, LAX. Because some of you may have eaten recently I won't go into the details, but let's just say that the public toilets in the hutongs of Old Beijing smell better, and that's saying a lot.
While we finally got our seats and made the 1:40 AM flight, and even watched a touching story about an opera troupe who falls onto hard times before working their way back to the top while cruising over the pacific, little did we know that our whole two bags did not catch the same flight. Maybe they had imaginary e-tickets, too.
So weary, tired, and sick with the worst head cold I've had in quite a few years, Ted and I decided to brave the streets of Beijing in clothes we have been wearing for I don't know how many days. Even though we stunk (and still do at this point, by the way) it didn't stop our first con from coming up to us right outside of the airport door asking if we wanted a taxi, only to attempt to lure us to the parking garage to his private car.
But after hopping into a real cab, it was time to actually see what this whole China country was about. First impressions:
1. Man, I miss the Oregon air. The smog is thick and you can taste the pollution, although it does do a heck of a job blocking the entire concrete jungle from view, which is nice when you are in the park.
2. I think Ted needs a man purse. I have seen quite fashionable hordes of businessmen in khakis and polo shirts with very expensive leather purses, and to tell you the truth, they put my tacky cheap purse to shame.
3. I love the park. Beihai Park is absolutely amazing. It has everything from roses, water lilies, and ancient architecture to knick knacks, cute old couples doing tai chi, and tango dancers. And weeping willows. Love it.
4. Everyone thinks I'm hot. Ted likes to point out that every other man on the street stares at me, but I think he's just jealous that he's not getting all of the attention.
5. Did I mention that the food was delicious? For 8 bucks (which was more than likely the jacked-up "laowai" price) Ted and I shared tea smoked duck, sichuan beef, and a Tsingtao, which hit the spot after walking around the park for hours.
So for all of you in the fam who want to know, I'm doing fine, I'm staying safe, and yes, I'm having a great time. Despite the smog, some nasty smells here and there, and seeing a few hutongs being torn down just in our first day of travels, I've really enjoyed our time in Beijing so far. The people are very nice, the food is amazing, and what areas of the city are preserved are absolutely stunning.
Because of the luggage situation Ted an I didn't have our cameras today, but I promise as soon as China Air delivers our bags, we'll be hitting the streets, snapping pictures, eating dumplings, and walking them off just as quickly as we shoved them into our mouths.
And a note to Facebookers: apparently the Chinese government does not want us to access the site, so we may not be able to keep in touch that way. If you need to get a hold of Ted or I, just send us an old-fashioned email, OK?
It had started with a canceled flight out of Eugene, then our e-tickets listed us coming back from Beijing but not going there, and on top of it all, before we could even make it to Beijing with our imaginary tickets, we had to stop over in that wonderful facility we all know and love, LAX. Because some of you may have eaten recently I won't go into the details, but let's just say that the public toilets in the hutongs of Old Beijing smell better, and that's saying a lot.
While we finally got our seats and made the 1:40 AM flight, and even watched a touching story about an opera troupe who falls onto hard times before working their way back to the top while cruising over the pacific, little did we know that our whole two bags did not catch the same flight. Maybe they had imaginary e-tickets, too.
So weary, tired, and sick with the worst head cold I've had in quite a few years, Ted and I decided to brave the streets of Beijing in clothes we have been wearing for I don't know how many days. Even though we stunk (and still do at this point, by the way) it didn't stop our first con from coming up to us right outside of the airport door asking if we wanted a taxi, only to attempt to lure us to the parking garage to his private car.
But after hopping into a real cab, it was time to actually see what this whole China country was about. First impressions:
1. Man, I miss the Oregon air. The smog is thick and you can taste the pollution, although it does do a heck of a job blocking the entire concrete jungle from view, which is nice when you are in the park.
2. I think Ted needs a man purse. I have seen quite fashionable hordes of businessmen in khakis and polo shirts with very expensive leather purses, and to tell you the truth, they put my tacky cheap purse to shame.
3. I love the park. Beihai Park is absolutely amazing. It has everything from roses, water lilies, and ancient architecture to knick knacks, cute old couples doing tai chi, and tango dancers. And weeping willows. Love it.
4. Everyone thinks I'm hot. Ted likes to point out that every other man on the street stares at me, but I think he's just jealous that he's not getting all of the attention.
5. Did I mention that the food was delicious? For 8 bucks (which was more than likely the jacked-up "laowai" price) Ted and I shared tea smoked duck, sichuan beef, and a Tsingtao, which hit the spot after walking around the park for hours.
So for all of you in the fam who want to know, I'm doing fine, I'm staying safe, and yes, I'm having a great time. Despite the smog, some nasty smells here and there, and seeing a few hutongs being torn down just in our first day of travels, I've really enjoyed our time in Beijing so far. The people are very nice, the food is amazing, and what areas of the city are preserved are absolutely stunning.
Because of the luggage situation Ted an I didn't have our cameras today, but I promise as soon as China Air delivers our bags, we'll be hitting the streets, snapping pictures, eating dumplings, and walking them off just as quickly as we shoved them into our mouths.
And a note to Facebookers: apparently the Chinese government does not want us to access the site, so we may not be able to keep in touch that way. If you need to get a hold of Ted or I, just send us an old-fashioned email, OK?
Monday, July 30, 2007
Finally back home ...
Well, I ended up not being able to post before I left Australia, which was ok. My last day there consisted of buying a muffin for breakfast, catching the train, then riding on an airplane over the ocean for about 12 and a half hours, before catching another plane back to Portland.
My time in Australia was fantastic, and it is still hard to believe today that I am back home, with absolutely nowhere to go. I feel like going and walking around the gardens or exploring other parts of the city before I have to tell myself that I am back in Eugene, and need to get back to work.
To everyone in the family, I'm glad you enjoyed the blog, as I had a lot of fun writing for it each day. It was a great way for me to reflect on everything that I had done and seen on the day, and I'm happy to say that I'll be doing the same when Ted and I go to China in the fall as internet usage permits. We'll be there for a whole month, so keeping up on the blog will be the best way to have a peek into what we are up to on the other side of the world.
As for the blog, I'm really going to scale it down, if not stop posting until China, as I know the few of you that do read this are bored by me in real life about constant talk of my thesis, and you don't need a second helping of it on the internet as well. But do come back starting at the end of September, as I'll be getting reading to head off to China for the time of my life with Ted in tow, and we should have a great adventure of which I want to share with you all, right here on the blog.
And a big thanks to all the family members who sent me compliments ... I'm just glad I wasn't doing all of that typing for nothing! :)
My time in Australia was fantastic, and it is still hard to believe today that I am back home, with absolutely nowhere to go. I feel like going and walking around the gardens or exploring other parts of the city before I have to tell myself that I am back in Eugene, and need to get back to work.
To everyone in the family, I'm glad you enjoyed the blog, as I had a lot of fun writing for it each day. It was a great way for me to reflect on everything that I had done and seen on the day, and I'm happy to say that I'll be doing the same when Ted and I go to China in the fall as internet usage permits. We'll be there for a whole month, so keeping up on the blog will be the best way to have a peek into what we are up to on the other side of the world.
As for the blog, I'm really going to scale it down, if not stop posting until China, as I know the few of you that do read this are bored by me in real life about constant talk of my thesis, and you don't need a second helping of it on the internet as well. But do come back starting at the end of September, as I'll be getting reading to head off to China for the time of my life with Ted in tow, and we should have a great adventure of which I want to share with you all, right here on the blog.
And a big thanks to all the family members who sent me compliments ... I'm just glad I wasn't doing all of that typing for nothing! :)
Saturday, July 28, 2007
Day 7: Sydney
Today was my last day in Sydney. It has been a great week, but I felt that I needed to go to the park one more time to get some work done, so I headed out early and caught the 8:10 train to Lindcombe so that I could see more of the armaments depot on the north end of the site.
Once I arrived at the park it was much busier than usual, being the weekend and all. There were car clubs racing around the roads, bikers everywhere, and teenagers coming to use the sporting facilities with parents in tow. I'm glad I got to see the park in this way, as during the week it had been largely deserted except for the occasional couples on a stroll, a few bikers, and of course the workers from near-by office buildings mulling around the park.
I don't know what it is, but I always seemed to get turned around in Australia. Maybe it is the whole below the equator thing, but I always feel like I am heading the right direction, and I will be going the exact opposite direction. This happened to me numerous times today, as I ended up in the suburb of Newington (which is south of the armaments depot), and when I was trying to find the ferry, I promptly walked myself all the way to the exact opposite tip of the park than were the ferry is located. That was loads of fun.
But back to Newington, I finally found the armaments depot, and I had a lot of fun there. My camera ran out of batteries not that long after I got there, but I found the area fascinating, and was glad that I came on a Saturday, as it is only open on we
ekends and holidays. There were a lot of people enjoying the area, which is fantastic considering it is right across the street from none other than the Silverwater Correctional Facility, with its four layers fencing and all. It was kind of crazy because there is fencing all around the depot, so you feel like you shouldn't be there until you can see the interpretive displays and street signs directing you around the area. It is even more confusing because some of the storage facilities would be roped off, but others you could approach and walk around, like the one you see to the left.Maybe one of the greatest things about the area was building 18, which looked very innocuous from the exterior. But upon the urging of one of the park rangers that just happened to be going by on his bike, I walked back to the building to find that it was an art gallery devoted to showing art that had been produced on site at the park. I guess that some of the old armory buildings are now used as art studios, and not only did they have art that had been produced on site, but it was also dedicated to telling the story of the transformation of this place from an industrial wasteland to a place of sport. It even outlined the more recent transition of the park from purely an international sporting facility into a community of athletes, artists, and adventure seekers.
On the fringe of the depot, one of the buildings, adjacent to the cranes on the Parramatta river that were used to lift the arms out of the ships coming in from Sydney so they could be safely stored in one of the many bunkers on site, had been re-used as a cafe. There was beautiful river seating outside, which continued past the cafe, where bubbling fountains lined rows of long tables and benches that accompanied BBQ areas for public use. The tables were shaded by the same kind of camo netting that the army uses in the desert, which made the wood tables and benches seemingly disappear into the landscape. It was beautifully done, and sat along the river walk, a trail that traverses the northern edge of the site. All along the trail there are large benches for people to enjoy the view, which is incredible considering that just 20 years ago this place was a polluted wasteland where no one would have thought to come to enjoy their Saturday afternoon.
As I thought it was important to experience as many transportation modes as I could in the park while there, I decided to take the rivercat back to Darling Harbour from the park. The ride was fairly laid back, except for the whining of a child who was overwhelmed by the experience. The first 20 minutes were fine, as he kept shouting, "Boout! Boout!" But then we came upon even more boats docked along the river, he went crazy as he couldn't wrap his head around all of the boats, and just starting crying, the poor kid. By the time I got off of the boat at Darling Harbour, he was beet red and looked like he had had a hard ride, poor little fella.
While I was mulling a visit to the aquarium, I decided I had my fill of kids screaming for the day and decided to pass. I went shopping instead, picking up some books before I headed down to the Rocks to find the market I had stumbled upon on Sunday. I had been tempted by some wood beads there before, and decided that I should treat myself to one gift as a memento of my time in Sydney. While I could have called it good with the ugly ten dollar watch and the library card, I decided to splurge on what turned out being a long necklace made of coconut wood, which has a rich, dark color. The beads were beautiful, so I shelled out the last of my Australian cash, $25 for it. Knowing I was out of cash until I got my key deposit back tomorrow when I check out, I decided I was done buying anything for the day except for some food. I decided Italian sounded good, and I got some expensive but good Spaghetti and ate it on one of the benches overlooking the harbor.
Getting on the train to go to Town Hall was kind over bittersweet. I realized once I hopped onto the train that that was the last time that I would be taking in the view at the harbor for quite a while. It was always a favorite of mine to grab some food from nearby and just relax, watching the ferries come in and out of the bay, see people crawling all over the opera house like ants on an abandoned picnic basket, and watch brave souls attempt to feed the birds without getting outright attacked.
Because it was still so early, I decided walk the malls again downtown, which was fun. Not fun because I found stuff I liked or anything like that, but because I realized how great we have it in the US. Things that I could easily get for $50 in the US were going for $120, which quickly helped me realize why Sydneysiders are so serious about their clothes: that is the only way you could spend the money it takes to adequately dress yourself in the city. I would stroll into shop after shop and browse through $350 dresses and $120 shirts, and these weren't even in the top tier stores. My favorite high prices of the day were bras from the equivalent of a Victoria's Secret for $150, a cotton dress at Ralph Lauren for over $800, and a plain white dress with some beads on it for over $3,000 in a department store. No wonder the one department store I went into with a sale had lines out the door ...
While my last day here was not that eventful, I have to say that I had a great time here in Sydney. Being a lone female traveler, the city was very friendly, as I never felt threatened or scared anywhere I traveled. And even though some of the cultural differences did begin to bother me by the end of the week, it was a great experience being outside of my very comfortable bubble back home, as I feel re-energized and ready to start working again on my thesis.
I plan on doing one more blog post from Australia, so do check in tomorrow ...
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