Friday, July 27, 2007

Day 6: Sydney

As my time here in Sydney is coming to an end, I had the realization yesterday that I needed to more work on my thesis, the whole reason I came here. So I got out of tourist mode, left my camera at home (sorry to those who enjoy the pictures), and decided to spend the day at the State Library of New South Whales.

There's nothing more exciting than getting a new library card, nonetheless from a library half a world away. Now if I ever need a good research library, I know where to go. The library was really beautiful in a simple way, with a gorgeous reading room (that was closed for renovations), and glass walls looking out to underground courtyards and subterranean sections of the over 100 year old building. The staff was very helpful in getting my account started, and within 10 minutes of turning in my call slips I was diving into my first book of the day. While most of the information I gleaned today was information I already had, I did get to read a very important document, the Sydney Regional Environmental Plan No. 24 ( or the SREP 24 for those in the know), which outlines in great detail the measures to be taken when it comes to protection of heritage monuments at Homebush Bay. I read five other documents until my eyes started bugging out of my head, and called it a day when I noticed it was already almost 4:00.

But when I stepped outside and noticed it was still fairly early, I decided to check out the contemporary art museum before I caught the train home, as the museum is about a block away from from the circular quay station. They were housing an exhibit by Latin American artists, so I thought it was worth checking out, especially after my ramblings on contemporary art just a few days ago.

The first few levels of the museum were typical. They were the fixed installations, and they were all horrid, except for a video that actually got me to stay and watch for a few minutes. What drew me in was the fact that it kind of scared me, as it was a huge screen with choppy waves in the middle of the ocean, with haunting music in the background. For a while it was just the waves, but in anticipation in seeing what was coming, I stood in the back of the empty room too see what was next. A woman then appeared out of nowhere in the water, swimming through the waves in a simple white outfit. She would swim, and then look as if she was losing energy, and slip quietly underwater. The first time this happened, she looked peaceful for a while, then seemed to wake from her stupor to rise to the top of the water again and swim against the waves. But then she dips under the water for a second time where again she looks at peace, with a mysterious creature that swims behind her as she seems to fall deeper before the camera raises out of the water without her in sight.

But the true stars of the show were in the Latin American exhibit. What is painfully obvious from the exhibit is that these artists have an identity problem, with the United Stated to blame. One installation simply stated that the United States is not the only country in "America", as South and Central America is largely forgotten. As a foreigner who always has to explain that "I'm from Oregon" and then after the pause add "In the States, north of California" to gain some kind of comprehension from the other person, I fully understand the strange feeling when your own identity relies on a common familiarity of a culture that is not your own. One of my favorite exhibits displaying this identity crisis was by Nadin Ospina. He masterfully creates figures and pottery that look as if they are pre-Columbian artifacts, but uses very noticeable figures (in these pieces he used Disney figures) as the object. For instance, he had a very native looking Micky Mouse with piercings and tribal tattoos, and one of my favorites was Minnie Mouse with a large Buddha belly. There was also what looked to be a relic bowl with Donald Duck heads for the feet. It was a fabulous installation, and I wish I could have seen more of his work.

Another favorite was Betsabee Romero. Her work centered around cars, with the first installation being photographs of abandoned cars that she had decorated on the streets of Mexico City. My personal favorite was a green bug which had been crazily decorated, and stood in front of street graffiti of a similar green bug on the wall behind it. While she had some other great photos from temporary installations, she also had tire treads that she had carved out with cool patterns and used as printmaking tools, with the proof on canvas. The patterns included roses, diamonds, and skulls, and it was great to see the quality of print that she could get from using the wheels as a print tool.

I also wanted to mention the work of Priscilla Monge, who had a series of boomerangs (how appropriate for Australia, right?) with messages such as "bastardo" and "pervertido", as well as other insults in Spanish. I loved the simple message with this simple installation: karma is a bitch, you had it coming, and you knew it all along. Love it.

And finally, I think the best in show would have to go to Vik Muniz. At first glance, it looked like his work was well-treaded territory. But with a closer look, one could see the layers unfold in very unexpected ways. He uses very interesting mediums to recreate very familiar images: on his website you can see one of those images I saw today, which is a portrait of Sigmund Freud done in chocolate sauce. Another favorite was Marilyn Monroe shaped from diamonds. But the show stopper was none other than the very famous image of a defiant Che Guevara formed from black bean soup. I've never seen a piece like it before, and in a museum full of pieces where you briefly look and move along, the works of Vik Muniz, Priscilla Monge, Betsabee Romero, and Nadin Ospina were engaging examples of mixed media that made you laugh, but more importantly think about your everyday perception of things, whether that be abandoned cars and their inner potential, or how fun it would be to create iconic images with what is being served for dinner.

After my diatribe on modern art a few days ago, I feel like there is some hope. I saw some very talented artists on display, which managed to challenge without making you feel that that was what they were going for. They also made you think, and look at the underlying message without being preachy or too edgy. Their work was creative, yet accessible, and obviously took talent to create. I just wish more Americans took a clue from these talents to the south, who are understated in the most fabulous of ways. I have to say, it was some of the most wonderful modern art I have seen in a very long time, and was a breath of fresh air from an emerging art scene that will no doubt be taking the world by storm.

After being delightfully surprised at the museum, I found myself feeling like a local, riding the evening train home with my copy of MX in hand. The MX is the extremely fun gossip/political/sports/city rail bitching rag that is handed out to commuters during rush our, and like everything else in public areas in Sydney, free. I joyfully read the Hollywood gossip I don't care about as I was just so happy to have a productive day today, especially since tomorrow is my last day here. I know yesterday I was starting to let the city get to me, and some of its aspects still bore me, but like any situation, I just need to look on the brighter side of things. Sydney on the whole, while it is cookie cutter, has some great places to experience that make up for the drab people that populate it.

But you know, that almost makes the experience even more fun. I love walking around on my own, doing my own thing in a town full of people doing the same thing, because it makes me feel like I'm just enjoying it more. Just because the locals are stiff, the food is overpriced and flavorless, and I can only get a good cup of coffee at one place in town doesn't take away the experiences I've had mountain biking in the Olympic Park, exploring the opera house, eating meals overlooking the ferries coming in and out of the harbor, and looking at every single piece of art possible in the museums around town. I've had a great time here, and I look forward to my last day out on the town.

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