Sunday, July 22, 2007

Sydney: Day One


Whew, what a day. I think the last time I finished posting I was stuck in a room of twenty year olds from Britain and Germany who were taking in Australian music videos from the 80s and 90s, with interviews running in between with Australian Soap Stars. No wonder I was cranky. Combine this scenario with jet lag, and Sydney was not seeming that great upon arrival.

But once the clock struck 12:30 and I was able to check into my room, the day quickly began to swing up on a very positive note. I haven't stopped to take a picture yet of the outside of the building, but I snapped this quick shot before I ran out the door to move around and get some fresh air, as it had been a very long journey to Sydney, and the only exercise I had had in two days was running up stairs with all of my luggage to catch the wrong train going through Central station. It's great, because I'm in a second building that is detached from the dorm section of the building, and on the second floor with a great view of the street below. The room even comes complete with bunk beds and a tv with 7 channels, 5 of which play rugby all the time.

Once I found the room and got settled, I practically ran out the door to head towards downtown. While checking in I had noticed a pamphlet on the New South Wales Art Museum, which has an exhibition called "The Arts of Islam." I was hooked instantly, and had decided at that moment that I was going to rush down today to check it out. I was feeling pretty horrible, and I knew there was nothing better to cure the blahs than a good art show.

While rushing down King street, I noticed a marked difference than when I had seen the street for the first time in the early morning. With shops now open and people crowding the streets, there was an a real electricity that had been missing earlier. All of the buildings became buzzing hubs of activity as coffee drinkers hung out of cafe windows and wonderful smells began to seep from the swath of restaurants which line the street. But I had no time to spend, as I wanted to get to the museum as soon as possible (I promise to get a picture of the street before I leave), and just my luck, I caught the central quay train right when it reached the platform with a little bit of hustle.

There is no better way to see Sydney than by rail. Sure, on the ferries you get nice vistas of important landmarks, but the trains reveal the deep history that is embedded throughout the different districts of the city. Unlike any other city I have seen, there is an abundance of older structures here which hold their own against more recent developments. Within moments on the ride to circular quay one can see anything from art deco office buildings and Romanesque warehouses, to Moorish train structures juxtaposed with Mies-like glass and steel boxes.

When the train pulled into circular quay, there were people bustling all over the Rocks neighborhood. My curiosity peaked, I decided that the museum could wait for another day, and stepped off the train to be faced with the Sydney Harbor Bridge and the Sydney Opera House. There was a coffee celebration of sorts going on throughout the neighborhood, with white tents as far as the eye could see that were selling different brands of coffees, teas, and sweets. All of this was happening at the same time as the weekly market, which is like a Saturday Market minus the patchouli under a large sail-like tent. Selling everything from post cards to hand beaded silk scarves, the market was bustling with locals, tourists, musicians and the like. Once I managed to trudge through the crowds (and fend off a "friendly" local who tried to get me to go on a date after striking up a conversation about taking pictures), I was finally able to see the Opera House for the first time.

It surprisingly does not dominate the landscape, as Sydney Harbor Bridge and the multiple ferries coming in and out of dock help to balance out its visual magnetism. But what surprised me the most was how approachable the building was. Just from looking at pictures, you would never guess how intensely people can interact with the structure, as you can walk through the different sail-like structures to see expansive views of the surrounding harbor and Botanical Gardens. The city skyline, which faces the opera house, is just as stunning of a vista as the harbor itself.
I was stunned at the beauty and the vibrance of the area. Yes, there were a lot of tourists, but there were a lot of locals as well, enjoying the markets, music, food, and coffee. The architecture was beautiful, with historic buildings standing distinctively next to the steel and glass skeletons which now line the harbor.

Once my inner architectural nerd got her fill of excessive photographs and my legs regained their spring, I realized that I had not eaten anything since the heart attack special that FAA served me over the ocean at 4:30 in the morning, local time. Knowing that everything in that part of town was going to be overpriced, I went back to King street and bought some garlic naan, pakora, and some lamb saag, which hit the spot.

Tomorrow I get to see the Olympic Park for the first time.

1 comment:

Niedermeyer said...

Hey, so I don't know who this "knicksgrl" is, but between her and the "friendly locals" I'm a little worried. It sounds like you are having an amazing time! I wish I could be there.